Saturday, September 29, 2012
La Roca, Nogales, Sonora , Mexico
You won't find the most famous restaurant south of Tucson at the elegant Tubac Resort and Spa, nor in sprawling Green Valley. The Cow Palace in Amado despite hosting John Wayne, Stewart Granger and other notable Hollywood cowboys is not the most famous either. One and only one restaurant has held the title for the the last forty years, and it is the spacious architectural gem located a mere block and a half inside the Mexican border simply called, La Roca.
The massive wrought iron gates, stone paved patio and colossal fountain greet us along with the bountiful greenery, abundant stylish outside furniture, fresh bright paint and generous second story windows. La Roca looks more like a stately mansion than a restaurant, however it is not stuffy in the least, it is vibrant, fun and alive with activity. It is a special place that mixes a bygone age of leisure with a contemporary zing that is unique. The many employees you'll notice all wear a smile with their clean pressed uniforms, in fact their pride is contagious, we the patrons are proud to be there.
Climbing the wide stairway to our destination we enter the main dining room to the warm greetings from Captains Enrique and Lupe to their handsome waiters in starched white jackets, black bow ties, and name tags (least we forget), even the uniformed busboys are welcoming. Now where to sit? Near the ample stage? The alcoves that are carved out of the mountain's stone? Near the roaring fireplace on a frosty night? Or perhaps the bright, comfy booths along the windows with splendid views of the gardens? Vases of fresh flowers, bright Mexican paintings, and artifacts mingle with the colorful cotton tablecloths and napkins that await our attentions.
This evening as its my guests first visit we choose to continue to the bar. El Balcon, La Roca's bar is past the ritzy bathrooms, spacious kitchen, and elegant meeting room that is inviting rather than sparse. More tables line more windows overlooking the massive fountain, another two smaller rooms with flat screens and Viola! we're in the bar. El Balcon as you might have guessed has a large balcony replete with tables and chairs looking out on the street, where I can grab a smoke. Inside we notice the polished copper bar and stools along with comfortable overstuffed leather chairs. Some choose to dine in El Balcon and do so on pounded silver Nambe trays, perhaps watching something on the massive flat screen. Tonight though, we sip our frozen margaritas and daiquiris Roberto so expertly concocted and flag down Lupe for our table.
We are seated as the mariachis softly play an old favorite from the stage, the glasses of purified water and colorful billboard style menu arrive with a smiling waiter. I explain to my guests that Sonora the Mexican state that we are in serves the finest beef in all of Mexico and it is the home of Guaymas on the Sea of Cortez where the huge and tasty jumbo prawns come from. I also share with them that the sea bass is outstanding. By the time we are finished we end up sharing a single flan with our Mexican coffee. For we three, the bill (including tip, and our drink in El Balcon) came to an even 100.00. Quite a bargain for the quality and quantity we devoured. However, you can take advantage of La Roca's buffet either for lunch or breakfast on the weekends and there you'll get the same outstanding service, and great food for under 10.00 for breakfast, and under 15.00 for lunch.
Now, when you mention Southern Arizona to your friends back home, and they say (as they always do) "Did you go to La Roca?" you can smile and say " Absolutely ! ". Reservations are encouraged. Call from your cell phone if you'd like an escort from the border. For hours, directions, telephone, menus, catering, special events and the world famous artisans store on premises called, El Changarro see:
www.larocarestaurant.com
www.larocarestaurant.com
Labels: Arizona, Charles Spencer King, eats, El Changarro, fine dining, food, La Roca, Mexico, Nogales Sonoran, Sonora, Tubac
Thursday, September 27, 2012
Mexico : September 16th Grito De Dolores O El Grito De La Independencia
Nogeles
Mexico, oh my, where to start? So many extremes laced in a siesta ! Where violence and tranquility are strange bedfellows. Religion and sin dance together to the Mariachi. Mexico and Brazil are the only two Latin American countries who declared war on the Axis powers in WWll, None did in WWl. The vast number of military engagements are historically internal or defensive in Mexico, and of these there are many. Banditos are a recurring theme and to a large part, an inbred culture in Mexico, think of Poncho Villa. The "cry of Delores" or "cry of Independence" was uttered on September 16, 1810. Typical of Mexico, this is when the war of Independence started, not when it was finished. In a way, this is a perfect example of just how different Mexican (and to some extent Latino) mentalities are. What outsiders expect, may be what they see, but what they see, is what is intended for them to see.
Mexico leads the world in labor statistics and is near the bottom of the list in wages. When France who eventually ruled Mexico for a short time, lost their first engagement, (before eventually ruling Mexico), the date was the fifth of May, 1862. What most of the world celebrates as Cinco de Mayo, Mexicans, do not celebrate this day (except for the sake of tourists, who naturally they are happy to please). What happened between 1810 and 1962 you might ask? Well in a nutshell, Mexico had several internal conflicts largely over the spoils of victory. The USA flexed its muscle and its manifest destiny mentality as well as voracious appetite for land. Mexico borrowed heavily from European powers, particularly France, and France came to collect.
Guaymas, my getaway
Before 1810, the Spanish had conquered Mexico. Herman Cortes had most of the Aztec blood on his hands, the Aztecs conquered the Mayans, who survived the advanced civilizations collectively of Olmec, Toltec, Teotihuacan, and Zapotec. Indeed some pretty heady, high brow cultures, to be sure. Therefore, despite the weakness of Mexico's educational system, Mexicans are quite intelligent, they're usually just not book smart. Street smart is the term I'd use, all Mexicans are street smart. Mexico has a very small middle class, a huge lower class, and a minuscule upper class, that has buckets. When you meet a rich Mexican, they are very, very rich, and often it is old family money. Of course the rich are educated in the United States, not in Mexico.
Mexico City
To be frightfully honest, I have lived here on and off for ten years, I have always paid my way, given advice and help freely, but I never will be accepted by the lower and middle classes, no matter what I do. Even those who know me, my neighbors, smile and say " Buenos Dia", but whisper "pinche Americano". This is quite different from my beloved Cuba, where I have made real and lasting friendships. Heck, I can't think of a single Cuban who has not paid me back when I loaned them some much needed cash, nor can I name one vicino (neighbor) or conocido (acquaintance) here in Mexico that has paid me back. Silly difference? Maybe, but something to consider when thinking of France. On the other hand, a poor Mexican will freely offer another one of his last two cigarettes, 10 pesos of his last 20 peso note, not to a gringo, but among themselves. Maybe the saving mentality is just absent, and they live one day at a time.
Cabo San Lucas
Mexico, has really majestic geography, awesome mountains, beaches, and weather you can't beat anywhere. The food is fresh and tasty, seafood is abundant. Living on the border as I do, is the best of both worlds, I can shop at Walmart,Home Depot, or golf or swim in the USA, and enjoy the low price of labor in Mexico. Of course there is not much culture on the border, we find that in the major cities around the country, not a border town. Still. there was a parade today, plenty of street vendors selling their wares and foods, music piping all night long and fireworks to look forward to. Thus, as one day at a time's go, it is a good day ! Feliz dia de la Independencia !
Cancun
Labels: Charles Spencer King, Dia De La Independicia|, Mexico, Nogales Sonoram
